by Trudy Horne

PROJECT: Voile bodice dress for spring

FEATURE:  Peter Pan Collars trimmed with narrow lace insertion & bias tube

MATERIALS:  "The Bodice Dress" pattern by Collars, Etc., 100% cotton Swiss voile in "Cream" from Bear Threads, narrow lace insertion #L53 from Bear Threads (dyed), DMC 50 fine cotton sewing thread in Cream, 60/8 universal machine needles for sewing voile, size 10 crewel & 12 sharp handsewing needles.

What makes this collar special?  Aside from the beautiful fabric and trim, the stitches connecting the collar, lace & bias are almost invisible when viewed from the right side.  The lace seems to float between the fabric pieces!  This look is achieved by working with the wrong sides of all the collar components facing up, picking up mere threads of under fabric (collar and bias) and only the headings of lace. 

Click here for Trudy Horne's lace dyeing tips.   

Collar Treatment Overview: The outer edges of the Peter Pan collars are finished with narrow lace insertion and bias fabric tubes.  Collar, lace and bias are basted face down on paper.  These components are then connected with hand stitches that do not pierce the paper.   After all the elements are stitched together, the basting stitches are snipped and collar is removed from the paper. 

This method of adding lace & bias tube is similar to the fagoting method featured in Fabulous Fagoting, a 6 page instructional guide found on this page.  Scroll down and click on bright blue "HERE" in third paragraph of article.  The only difference is that the bias tube on this collar (left) is connected with lace insertion instead of fagoting.  If you are new to this type of handwork, study & practice the shaping, basting and connecting steps from the guide to familiarize yourself with the nuances of the featured techniques.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR COLLAR:  

Adjust collar pattern  The collar pattern must be adjusted to accommodate the total width of the collar treatment.  Subtract the total trim from the SEAMLINE of the collar's outer edge.   For the featured collar, this amount is a generous 5/8" (1/4" for finished width of bias tube and 5/16" for width of insertion). 

Make collars as per pattern instructions.  See tips on page 6 of Fabulous Fagoting. 

Make & Shape Bias Tubes   See instruction for Fabulous Fagoting, below, for making and shaping bias tubes.

Baste collar, right side down, to a piece of paper large enough to accommodate collar and all trim. See Fabulous Fagoting.  Note that with right side down, the under collar (or facing) is facing up. 

Shape & position lace:  Pull a thread in the heading on one side of the insertion.  This will be the inside curve of the lace.  Place insertion, right side facing down, to paper with the inside curve of lace right next to the seamed edge of collar.  Pull the thread in the insertion only enough to make it curve to match the contour of the collar, while lying as flat as possible. Baste insertion to paper.  Use point of steam iron to set the curve and steam out any extra fullness in the insertion. 

Connect insertion to collar  With 10 crewel or 12 sharp needle and one strand of DMC 50 thread, whip insertion to collar.  Be careful not to pierce the paper with the stitches. With each stitch catch a few threads of the under collar fabric* and the heading of the lace insertion. 

Baste bias tube to paper  Place bias to paper with seamed edge right next to free edge of insertion.  See Fabulous Fagoting, below.  

Connect bias tube to insertion   With same size needle and thread, sew insertion to bias, picking up only the heading of the lace and a few fabric threads of the bias with each stitch.  Do not pierce paper with stitches. 

Remove paper.  When all sewing has been completed, snip basting threads from back of paper and carefully remove the collar. 

* When connecting fabric components such as collar and bias tube, pick up only a few threads of the undercollar (facing) fabric, and only a few threads of the underside of bias tube fabric.  In other words, don't stitch through all layers at seamed edges of collar or bias tube. This careful sewing makes the connecting stitches almost invisible when viewed from the right side, and produces a smooth, seamless appearance of the collar, lace and bias trim.

Have you visited our Facebook page?

It is filled with images of beautiful needlework samples

and dozens of photos of creative inspiration!

Click on the image, left, to find us on Facebook  

BASIC SMOCKED YOKE DRESS

WITH UNSMOCKED BACK

Most yoke dress patterns (including our Yokes Dresses I)  have yokes intended for both the front and the back to be smocked.  If you only want to smock the front ( and lets' be honest here....some of us don't have the time or the inclination), the back yoke must be lowered so that the gathers on the front and  back begin at the same level.  See horizontal lines on illustration, left.  If this pattern adjustment is not made, you will not only have a lopsided-looking dress, but it will not hang properly when worn.  

If you would like a copy of Trudy Horne's Pattern Adjustments for an Unsmocked Back Yoke, send $2.00 to us at the address on the bottom of this page.  The clear, concise and well-illustrated instructions walk you through the necessary steps to alter the back yoke, and you will find this simple, pattern drafting lesson useful for years to come.  

Sorry, we only have hard copies of this article!

With just a small square of smocking on the front to create a custom look, our Smocked Baby Daygown pattern makes an ideal gift!  

The collar included in the pattern does not meet at the center front in order to allow maximum exposure of the smocking.  However, if you’d rather have a collar that does meet in the front, click HERE for a free copy!  This collar pattern is a PDF, requiring Adobe Acrobat to open. 

 Of course, a coordinating blanket from our Beautiful Baby Blankets booklet is the perfect item to go with your Smocked Baby Daygown.  Browse our catalog for other wonderful patterns and items for baby!

Inside Story

This very small monogram was worked on the inside of a yoke dress, on the narrow bias neck facing. The height of each letter is only 3/16”.  

First, draw the letters on the fabric with a 2B pencil.  Using a size 12 sharp needle and one strand of floss, work outline stitches over the letters. Work satin stitches over the outline stitches, picking up as little fabric as possible with each stitch. 

Monogramming is done after garment construction is completed.  

Fagoting stitch variations are many, but even the most simple ones are effective. When done in a neutral color and fine thread, fagoting adds a delicate element of texture and dimension. Fagoting can be used to attach and introduce a contrasting color, or the stitches themselves can be the colorful feature.  

Since falling in love with the technique in the 1970’s, Trudy Horne found ways to incorporate fagoting into a variety of garments, including many featured in her articles for Creative Needle Magazine.  Fagoting was also included in needlework classes she taught over the years.  Now for the first time, Trudy is making one of her prized class handouts, previously reserved only for students, available online.   Click HERE for the handout to her Fabulous Fagoting class.   Adobe Acrobat is required to view the handout.  Practice the basics first, then spend some quality time dreaming of your next project that will include this lovely technique.  

If for some reason you miss all the fine print on any of the pages, be reminded that the Fabulous Fagoting instructional booklet is for personal use only, and cannot be reprinted for any reason without written consent from Trudy Horne.

Above, our Yoke Dresses I , with added sash that no respectable little girl would allow to remain tied permanently, is shown in yellow cotton print. The collar is from Collar Package #5 in Swiss batiste, trimmed with gathered eyelet edging.

There is something sweet and youthful about square collars.  Perhaps that’s why this flattering collar style has been part of children’s fashion for such a long time.    Square collars are suitable for little boys and little girls, can be made from a variety of fabrics and/or trims, and work equally well with dressy or casual outfits.  The decidedly dressy collar featured in the photos above and below, is made of Swiss batiste and trimmed with entredeux and lace edging.  You can draft your own square collar using the front and back of yokes, bodices or shirts.  OR use any of the square collars from our Collar Packages #1, #2 or #5 which include detailed instructions and illustrations for transferring embroidery designs to fabric, embroidery techniques, adding entredeux and trim to the collar’s edge, and fitting the collar to the selected garment.

If you would like to use the embroidery motifs* featured on the collar in the photos:

1)Send us a self-addressed, stamped envelope and we will send you a printed copy

OR

2) Email us (mail@collarsetc.com) and we will email you a PDF

*although the design is free, it IS copyrightted, and intended for personal use only.

The Tuck Dress for Spring Finery

Honestly, is there anything sweeter than this confection of batiste, lace, tucks, buttons and delicate embroidery? Well, maybe the sweet little girl who will be wearing it.  Question: With so many different elements, why doesn't this garment appear cluttered or too busy?  Answer:  The color scheme is simple and soft, and the trim is minimal.  Even the tucks, front pleat and buttons are visually aligned with pleasing, vertical repeats that direct your eyes to the only features that demand attention - the dainty pinwheel flowers that punctuate every other tuck. 

Scroll down below the photo for the complete materials list and link to instructions for making pinwheel flowers.

See our list of retailers found on the Links page of this website, or contact your favorite fabric shop to purchase materials.

MATERIALS LIST  "The Tuck Dress pattern by Collars, Etc. Pattern Co., Bearissima I 100% cotton Swiss batiste in pink from Bear Threads for dress.  Bearissima II 100% cotton Swiss batiste in white from Bear Threads for collars.  Entredeux.  5/8" wide lace edging #852 from Capitol Imports.  DMC embroidery floss in white, yellow #745 and green #3364.  Size 11 sharp needle for hand embroidery.  1/4" mother of pearl buttons for dress front.  3/8" mother of pearl buttons for back closure.  DMC 50 fine cotton sewing thread for sewing dress.  Size 70/10 universal machine needle for sewing dress. 

Click here for printable PDF of instructions for making pinwheel flowers. You will need Adobe Acrobat to view and/or print the document.

Beautiful Flower Girls

Bridget Anderson of North Carolina made these two adorable flower girl dresses using our Bodice Dress pattern.

The dresses are made with ivory silk dupioni and View 1 (without collar).  The cummerbund/sash combination is made of peach silk dupioni.  The cummerbund was cut about 6" wide on the bias, with the ends gathered and attached to 4" wide sashes.  

These garments showcase the stylish elements found in elegant children's wear:

-simple silhouette

-quality materials 

-balanced color scheme

....plus precious children are the icing on the cake

Dogs Rule

Courtney Albrecht of Montgomery, Alabama made this adorable outfit for her son who is ready for football season!  The maroon and white gingham check over-blouse is worn over matching pull-on shorts.  The contrasting white, smocked insert features three Spencer bulldogs smocked in the fawn color scheme.  

Whether tailgating with the family or rooting for the team when the game is on television, this is a cool, comfortable and fashionable way for little boys to show some team spirit.  

Be a fan - smock a bulldog.

scroll down below for more information on Spencer the Bulldog

Adora-Bull

Our "Spencer the Bulldog" design, smocked on khaki Imperial broadcloth, features black piping and gathered eyelet trim around the collars. 

THE BULLDOG is the mascot for dozens of college sports teams, the United States Marine Corps and a host of other organizations, enterprises and bodies.  Although unique and endearing features have made this venerable breed a popular canine companion, the bulldog is more widely known as the deserving symbol of tenacity, loyalty and courage.

“Spencer the Bulldog” smocking design is a tribute to bulldogs everywhere.

If you are a dog lover, team fan or simply cannot resist the charms of our precious pooch, smock “Spencer the Bulldog” on your child’s next outfit and wait for the smiles.

"Spencer the Bulldog" smocking plate includes photos, diagrams and instructions for two  coat colors:  fawn and white.  

 “Spencer the Bulldog” smocking plate can be purchased from this website, or from your favorite heirloom sewing and smocking shop.  See our Links page for list of shops.

“Spencer the Bulldog” is a copyrighted design for individual use only, and is not intended for commercial production of any kind. 

BUNNY SMOCKING FOR SPRING  Smock the JG Rabbit™ design (from our Layette pattern) on pink or blue cotton solids, checks, micro checks or dense prints.  For a single bunny, use our Toddler Smocked Apron, Mary Jane Jumper, Smocked Baby Daygown or Will patterns.  See Patterns page.

Because JG Rabbit™ is a silhouette, he is an easy stacked-cable project. For the body, use 4 or 5 strands of floss for the best coverage on heavier fabrics.

For an extra fluffy tail, make the rabbit’s tail using clipped turkey work stitched over smocking. If turkey work is not on your embroidery horizon, then take a shortcut by purchasing a small fluff ball (pom pom) at a craft store and stitching it securely.  

Detailed instructions for making the collar were featured in the October 2008 issue of Creative Needle Magazine

CONTEMPORARY

DRESSY

RIBBON ACCENT

mix & match with complementary prints, stripes and other coordinating fabrics

dress it up with white eyelet or linen accented with pastel satin ribbon ties

make a statement with ribbon sewn over tier seams and matching ribbon shoulder bows

Turn one of our most popular patterns, Hanna's Sundress, into a breezy, tiered frock for summer.  Click here for complete instructions (PDF), including charts for tiers. 

Adobe Acrobat Reader required to view instructions which can be printed for easy reference.